Unimog 421.128 Cross Joint

Its looks like original, front propeller shaft universal joint/ cross joint.

Cap 38mm x length with cap 110mm

Front driveshaft, unique cv joint mechanism. To open you must first open the small L key, then sledgehammering out the cap with 11mm (or 10mm) bolt .. for the pin you must use at least 50 ton bench press.. easter guru said. The price of this shaft when new can buy you one motorbike. Dang. We’ll try to repair the cross joint only as the shaft is okay but the joint doesn’t have any bearing and dry as a bone.

Unimog 421 Kingpin Bearing

These front Unimog 421 kingpin bearing (yeah rear doesnt have any off course) never seen like this one. From easter unimog guru, we know that you can find online, its used by industry.

The code is GE30ES, its called spherical plain bearing. Nice info Guru 🙂

The left one is upper (no oil canal) the right one with the oil canal at the center is at the bottom. At least this is on my 421.128

Just another mog project .. 421 U600L

what kind of number is this? 421 322 0001.. its different from VIN number 421.128

driver side door pillar (left) 421 81 .. i just can’t read it. Which one is the original colour?

Read more: Just another mog project .. 421 U600L

Right door pillar.. colour code?

Its been said that this unit are ex Timor Timur, now timor leste (1975?)

UNIMOG Transmission cap, stuck here and there..

Tried and true.. WD40

This read bed mounting shaft stuck like hell.. takes 1 day and two people to remove it, using garage built tracker, hammer, weld and so on..

1KD-FTV Thermostat (2)

The brand new original Thermostat S/N 90916-03118 (applicable for engine 1KZ, 1KD, 2KD, 1GD).

Opening temp: 90-91°C
Closing temp: 78-79°C

Quite different from the old thermostat.

1KD-FTV Thermostat

Test on boiled water and Hg thermometer.

Visually start to open at 85°C, fully open at 90°, fully closed at 74°C

Is it normal? the vehicle tend to too cool.. heated slowly (about 4-5km running, and the temp needle still not reach half – ECU read around 70°C )

Toyota 1KD-FTV Engine Balance Shaft Bearing

Short of word, it doesn’t existant!

Don’t spend your time looking in Toyota EPC, because it doesn’t exist. And it’s also applied for 2KD (and 1KZ-TE) engine. Weird? yes, especially as 2KD engine is very common in Indonesia.

Solution:

1. Make the metal bearings, ask your trusted engine shops. Some shops can modified bearing from another make and models. I’m not sure what kind of car, some engineer at local shop said Isuzu Panther. The damage cost is badly robbed your pocket. One engine shop wants IDR 250K for one bearing. So multiply it with 6. Don’t make from bronze, it’ll not last long.
2. Source it from 3rd party part supplier. You can check engineaustralia, they have one at a decent price and quality. Call them and talk to Jack Foster. He will happy to sent it worldwide. Shipping and handling also cost you decent price. I paid almost IDR 2000K for two sets include Fedex and customs bill. The bearing fits nicely in the short block. Currently i’ve one set extra.

Should I Remove the Balanceshaft?

This question popped-up in several online forums. Our newly overhaulded 1KD engine only last less than 10 hour with deleted balanceshaft. The previous builder defunctioned the balanceshaft because he can’t source the bearing. So he made the bronze bearing for the shaft, install the shaft but didn’t put the gearing on.

Please note that we have automatic gearboxes. The engine rattle and pistons badly scratched that we must install new liner and new pistons.

I read about some disharmonic shake especially if you have automatic gearbox. From my point of view, if you targetting for engine longevity, durability and comfort, don’t delete the balanceshaft.

1kd-ftv_engine repair manualDownload

Chevrolet Trooper Diesel C223 Workshop Manual

Here they are, for repository.

Covered:

Isuzu/ Chevrolet Trooper KB/ UBS C233/C233T 4 cylinder 2238 cc diesel engine

06c-c223-c223t-diesel-engineDownload

Unimog 404 rear shock

Came to local shop and find several shock

Hino RK 260 (bottom picture max 77cm min 47cm), Mercedes Euro 1525 (the long one), Kayaba Hino (not in picture, max 66cm min 41cm)

The white one is what 404’s had in rear, but i think its not original. Its 67cm max and 42cm min. Apparently its too short for application.

The mercedes euro unit was very hard, we can’t pull the shock with human muscle hehe, even with two people! And the price also high, Rp. 1.400.000,-

Finnaly i select this one, its Cofap brand. According to shop owner, its for mercedes 1521 OH Bus 1990’s (shock length max 76cm, min 46cm). Not very hard, i can pull it to the maximum length. Its for front application and had small piston comparing to old one. But i don’t really care about piston size, what i care is price, Rp. 425.000,-. Affordable.

But unfortunately the shock pin is undersize, its 15mm whereas 404’s is 20mm. We’ll figure it later.

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  Cofap mercedes 1521 OH Bus 1990’s (max 76cm, min 46cm)

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  Brazilian Magneti Marelli company, you can find the website here

Unimog 404 Shock Absorber

What kind of shock is this? Rear shock.

Front

Specification

Rear shock tower:
eye to eye (rear tub removed): 63cm
bump stop to axle tube: 14cm
shock bolt: 20mm

Front shock tower:
eye to eye: 53cm
bump stop to axle tube: 9cm
shock bolt: 20mm

The standard shock for 404 according to part number is 4043230000 and one of the equivalent is Monroe 2058 with below spec:

Max Length 66-67cm, min length 39-40cm.

Unimog 404: Paint it ..

I hate to be a person that sometimes difficult to make a choice. Not every choices, but choosing a car color is one of hard thing for me. Googling hundred of 404 photo from internet then i narrowed it down to grey. Grey is cool. But almost of my 4×4 is green haha. My mom suggested white. My wive prefer sandy white. And daughter think dusty pink would be nice. My son had no clue at all. Complicated.